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Viva Europa
June 26th, 2007 by Dining Diva Janice
I sent an “instant message” to Muffin*, my pal from college with an invite to come join me in Tiburon for a 2- Daycation.
Her quick response? “I’m in.”
A few days later I pick her up at SFO and we take the endlessly long ride from San Francisco to Tiburon. Try only 15 minutes—now that’s what I like in a getaway. We zip over the Golden Gate Bridge, through the tunnel and abracadabra, it’s like being transported to another world. Even Tiburon’s weather, to say nothing of it’s landscape, people, and vibe, is totally different from San Fran’s. It was at least 1o degrees warmer when we exited the freeway and a few miles later segued into our digs for the night - the newly renovated
This full service, easy-going luxe hotel sits smack dab in the heart of Tibbie-town. The Lodge’s public spaces are lovely, done up in beautiful outdoor shades -the exact colors of Nature’s wardrobe. The craftsman-style property has 102 rooms, including the suites and are styled out with every amenity necessary for an easy getaway: Sumptuous featherbeds WITH a choice of pillows- so important for that perfect night’s sleep, a large complimentary wireless workspace complete with an ergonomically correct chair,(because they don’t want you getting all knotted up after you just spent the last hour luxuriating in your massive Jacuzzi tub,) cuddly-soft robes, free movies to borrow, and so on….
After we arrive, we head directly to the pool to catch some late afternoon rays. The beautifully maintained patio area is studded with flowers and fantastic private cabana’s (literally unheard of in the Bay Area) triggering a Pavlovian response to order one of those resort-y cocktails. Ahhhhh, this is the life.
The only noise we heard came from our tummies, growling as a reminder that we had skipped lunch. Dressed “pool casual ” we strolled in to the Lodge’s Dining Room,
. We decided to sit outside, which thoughtfully has heat lamps to combat any winds, so we could eyeball the local action. Tiburon’s quaint boutiques,art galleries, bars and restaurants are just a stone’s throw away and it was fun to see the locals meandering about as their day came to a close.
Dinner time! We speed -read though our menu’s and ordered up. After a sip of two different wines so that we could decide which we preferred,(don’t you just love places that do that?) are apps arrived. I loved my loaded Gingered crab cake(s) starter with it’s side of sweet and sour slaw. Muff went for their Market Salad, a tasty tangle of greens, apples, blue cheese and candied pecans. She felt she needed the roughage. Like, did anyone ask?
Next up was the most wonderful entree -a slowly braised pork shoulder, sporting a ruffle of super thin potatoes, topped with the teensiest little pearl-sized pear rounds. We also shared a Tavern Menu burger-largely because so many people around us seemed to be eating it with gusto. Good call.
We were to full for dessert, still, not a peep was heard from our table, when our waiter brought out a plate with two white porcelain spoons for each of us. One held a taste of cherry-coke sorbet topped by bitter-sweet coco nibs, and the other had frozen passion fruit ice with a bit of mango and sea salt. Talk about a perfect ending! This Chef has ice-cream NAILED! Bedtime!
December 14th, 2005 by Teresa
I’ve forgot how to breathe. Since my time in beautiful, but smoky Europe, I’ve been taking shallow, useless inhalations. In the beginning, it was because I didn’t want to inhale more smoke than necessary to keep my pulse going. Now, I think it’s because every time I use my Apple computer, I wait in anticipation for something bad to happen. It’s like watching a scary movie and you think the next scene is going to scare the devil out of you. Same feeling. Things are still not working right, but I’m not going to take my computer in until I deliver my manuscript on March 1, 2006.
I’ve written 12 of the 50 chapters, and I back up my files hourly now. I’m averaging about four chapters a week. This is only possible because I have an amazing crew who’s supporting me. Sarah Naimark is my research assistant, she’s the one that forges through the vast mountains of information and books, so I can make sense of it all. Then there is Stephanie Block who directs and coaches me through each chapter. Sometimes I get so stuck on a word or a phrase and she’s the one to slap me out of it. The word for today was “darling.” She threatened to cause bodily harm if I ever use that word in my writing again.
On Saturday, my husband and I are going on a much-deserved spa vacation. We’re going to Rancho La Puerta (http://www.rancholapuerta.com/) for a week. I can’t wait. My whole life I have dreamed about going there, but due to time and funds, it never happened. We’re skipping Christmas this year, this is our gift to each other. A pretty nice one I must admit!
While there, my goal is to relax, rejuvenate, detox, and write a few more chapters. I’d love to truly rest my mind for a week, but that ain’t going to happen. I have 76 days to finish a 50-chapter book.
December 12th, 2005 by Teresa
Sorry that I have been away for a while. Funny, I’m in Europe for 16 days and I blog everyday, then I come home and I disappear. It was for good reasons, I assure you. Remember that my Apple PowerBook G4 went into the shop before my trip? Well the saga took a turn for the worse.
On Thursday December 1, I hooked up my external hard drive to another Apple to download some files that I needed to work on ASAP, I still did not have my computer. Nothing was there, all my files were Alias’. I immediately called Naomi and left a message begging her to not clear my hard drive. I had not saved my information properly and that was my only copy (yes, my fault). I then called her Friday morning, no luck. She didn’t answer her phone, nor did she ever return my calls. On Friday afternoon, I was told that my computer was ready for pick up and that my hard drive was replaced. I fell on my knees and dry heaved, my hard drive had everything: my book, all my writing, all my contacts, everything. Gone.
I accept full responsibility for not backing up properly. But the customer service, the lack of communication, the rudeness, the complete disrespect for my concern about my hard drive, and the general feeling that no one at Apple cares is really disappointing.
Luckily, the Mac Genius at Apple is a true hero. His name is Eli Block and I brought in my external hard drive and he took the time to find some old data on it from October. You should have see it, it was a scene out of a movie. I sat there, with a half dozen other people waiting for help, when Eli hooked up my hard drive to see what he could find. I was sick, shaking and on the verge of tears. All the customers were so supportive and kept me calm through the process. Then, all of a sudden, beautiful Eli pops his head up from his monitor and says, in an angel’s voice, “What’s the name of your book?” I said, “Fly Solo,” and he says the best words I’ve heard all year, “Top 50?” And I exclaim, “YES!” and start crying. Everyone around the Genius bar started clapping as Eli grined, and I wept for joy. Eli is on the Acknowledgments page of my book.
But, now, the right-hand-side side of my computer, where I rest my wrists, is pushed in and creeks when I’m typing – this was not so when I dropped it off in November. I dare not take it in to get it fixed, I might lose another 3 weeks off my deadline.
November 27th, 2005 by Teresa
Only two more nights and my adventure is over. Part of me wants to continue this crazy trip, while the other part is looking forward to being back home in my cozy bed with my husband, and enjoying my cats, horse, the Tango DIva team and friends. The part that is winning is the cozy home part. I want to reconnect with everyone who is inportant in my life. I sure have missed everyone.
Something happens to my identity when I travel alone. I forget who I am and it’s my chance to reinvent myself. Ironically, the person that was invented is not like the one I expected to invent. I thought I would be more healthy, more patient, more giving, and more outgoing on this trip. The person I am right now is someone who is not very patient, not interested in meeting anyone, and who is less giving than I expected. Oh, and I’ve haven’t stopped eating or drinking since I got to Europe and I’ve only worked out twice. I have no excuse for not being someone better, I just didn’t take the time to be aware of it as often as I should.
Time on this trip was shorter than I expected. I thought there would be plenty of time to write each city chapter and enjoy quiet mornings meditating. Nope. It was hard to sleep and most mornings started at around 10:00 am, where I would jump out of bed, grab breakfast and hit the cities in search of perfect sites and activities for solo travelers. Nights where long. I’d eat out, find the perfect après-dinner local for a nice nightcap and get back to my hotel around 2 am, where I would then toss and turn for another hour or two.
Tonight I’m going on a boat cruise of the Danube and then dinner with Marta Palfalvi, the public relations manager of the Four Seasons (one of the great perks of being a travel writer, and soon-to-be best selling author!). I leave Budapest tomorrow at 4 pm. I’ll spend one night in London, then back home on a painful economy seat on British Airways. Unfortunately, I haven’t figured out how to move from economy to business or first class yet.
November 26th, 2005 by Teresa
I’m exhausted. My time in Prague was completely filled up and I’m sure that changing hotels while I was here didn’t help my stamina. When I was planning this trip, checking out 2 different design hotels sounded like a grand idea. Of course this idea was concocted while sitting comfortably in my cozy, centrally- heated house, far away from the smoked-filled hotel lobbies and freezing temperatures in Prague. Well, that all changed after feeling homeless for the past 48 hours. Both hotels – the Hotel Joseph and the Hotel Maximilian are wonderful. But I had to check out of one at 10 am and I didn’t check into the next until after 5 pm. I did spend the day exploring Prague, but the painful part was packing up my luggage three times in the past 72 hours. Once in Berlin, then twice in Prague.
Thankfully, I’ll be at the same hotel for my two nights in Budapest. I have to admit that I splurged on my last leg of this rock star trip. I’ll be staying at the Four Seasons and I even ordered a car to pick me up. I know that I would be exhausted (which I am, but I’m also very cold and sore.)
It might sound like I’m complaining, and I apologize, I’m not. My time is Prague was fantastic! The first night I went out to dinner with a friend who lives in Prague. His name Justin and he took me out to this amazing Cuban restaurant that’s filled with Cubans, so I could practice my Spanish! Everyone writes on the walls and ceiling, so I asked for a pen and proceeded to write VIVA TANGO DIVA on the ceiling! If you’re in Prague, head to the Cuban restaurant, go up the stairs and look up!
Last night I went out with three Americans who I met on the train from Berlin. We went out for a fantastic international dinner at Pravda. We ended the night drinking Absinthe in a gay nightclub in the old town.
Today I took a crappy bus tour of Prague castle with 30 of my closest, annoying tourists friends. I had to leave the tour out of sheer survival, and I ended up at the communist museum. I’m now in the lobby of the Maximilian hotel, where they have free wireless!! (very rare in Europe).
Sorry I don’t have any pictures for the post. The tiny USB port that I’ve been using did something to all my pictures from London to Paris (lost them) so I’m not using it anymore. I’ve been using my camera’s big USB port and charger. But it’s way too much work to set up in the lobby here. I’ll share some pictures with you tomorrow.
In two hours, I fly to Budapest. I plan on staying in tonight and ordering room service. Tonight will be my night to chill and recuperate. Something that I have not done since this crazy trip started! I have lots of great stuff to write about and I can’t wait to share them with you in the book.
November 25th, 2005 by Teresa
I’m getting used to being a traveling bohemian. I’m re-wearing smoky clothes and not washing my hair everyday. I’m not too worried if my stomach is growling or my feet hurt. I just keep walking. I’ve been cold since I got to Europe and I’m becoming accustomed to the chill I feel when getting hit by the cold, winter air here. My throat is always dry and scratchy, so I’ve been going through a pack of gum everyday. I chew gum in my sleep. I’m averaging 4-5 hours of sleep a night, the bags under my eyes are easier to carry around than my traveling bags, which are getting heavier and heavier as I move from one amazing location to another one. My digestive system is not enjoying traveling as much as my mind , but that’s just a part of exploring and discovering new places, food, and friends.
This trip has been overwhelming and wonder-filled. So many times I’ve had to stop and wipe the tears of amazement off my face. I’m so grateful that I’m able to take this trip. I wish everyone could take a trip like this. This voyage has become a pilgrimage for me. I’ve moved from place to place, praying that everything will go smoothly during my travels – truly trusting God, and I’ve been blessed by some fantastic people along the way. I can’t believe that I only have a few days left on this adventure. It really has been magical. I’m staying at Hotel Josef in the center of Prague and it’s phenomenal! Check it out, and make sure to come stay here! www.hoteljosef.com. I met the architect who designed it at breakfast this morning. Eva is an extraordinary woman and you will read more about her when I return to the USA. Check out her website at www.ejal.com. I’m off to explore Prague now. Have a wonderful day!
November 23rd, 2005 by Teresa
Berlin. Wow. This city moved me. It made me think, laugh, cry, and thank God that I was not around during any of the world wars. I think that as an American, we have been sheltered from some of the most horrific – as well as important- events in the world. Today I spent on a free walking tour offered by New Berlin. ( www.newberlintours.com) We visited all the important places in Berlin’s tormented history. My whole life I’ve dreamed of letting 99 red balloons go free at the Brandenburg Gate, but instead of doing that, I stood in awe of this amazing structure. I will never be the same after my visit to this fascinating city. It’s a city of contradictions. On one side of a street is a beautiful Christmas market and just across the road you’ll find a monument dedicated to all who have died in all the wars Berlin has been involved in. I ended the night with a pub tour, and one of the stops was a communist bar – amazing! I drank some Absinth, which I really hate the taste, but I love the effects. We finished at an underground nightclub that looked like a bunker. It’s late here, 3:40 am, so I’m going to go to bed. I’m off to Prague tomorrow. For all you readers in the United States. Happy Thanksgiving! We are so blessed to live in a country that does its best (sometimes too much) to protect us. I can’t think of any place better to be celebrating all that I have to be thankful for than in a city like Berlin. Thanks for reading, and may your Thanksgiving Day be wonderful!
November 21st, 2005 by Teresa
Wow! I’ve got some great information for the book in the past 48 hours! It’s amazing when you have friends of friends, who know friends who have know all the secrets of a city. Today I spent the morning with the wonderful Jennifer from Germany, then I went on a Paris walking tour with Antoinette Azzurro who does private, specialized tours of Paris for the discerning Diva. She’s a must when you come to town!
The afternoon was spent in a charming café, across the river from Notre Dame, drinking hot chocolate, followed by Champagne. For dinner, Jennifer and I dined at a delicious Moraccan restaurant and ended our evening with comforting, hot mint tea.
I’m meeting Jen in the morning and we’re going to a Turkish bath house for a massage, then she returns home and I fly off to Berlin.
Is this trip crazy, or what? I’m having a great time and meeting the most delightful people. Please feel free to send me an e-mail, I’d love to hear from you!
teresa@tangodiva.com
November 20th, 2005 by Teresa
Jen and James picked me up at my hotel, the La Tremoille. Which is a must for the solo Diva who wants to spoil herself rotten! Jen told us about this man Jim, an expat from Louisiana who had been living in Paris for 27 years. For the past few years, he’s been serving a home-cooked meal to Anglo expats and visitors who long for some English conversation in a smoke-free environment. The fee is 25 euros, that included wine. We would be dining with Jim, and tonight’s theme was Thanksgiving.
A few Metro stops later, we showed up at Jim’s place that was packed with friendly, English speaking guest. It was a blast! I met two girls from the same small town I first lived in Australia. The town is called Warnambool and it is out in the middle of nowhere. We chatted about the old haunts and crazy people that live there.
Jim serves dinner every Sunday night, so if you’re in Paris and want to meet a few fun people (yes there was a number of odd ducks there, but that’s to be expected) give Jim a call on Friday to reserve your dinner on Sunday night.
Jim HaynesAtelier A-2 – 83 rue de la Tombe Issoire
Paris 75014Tel: 01 4327 1767
Jim_Haynes@wanadoo.com
November 20th, 2005 by Teresa
I’m off to Paris now! My time is Brussels was lovely and I look forward to coming back again. The people here are so friendly!
I’d be lying if I didn’t t tell you that this is a pretty exhausting trip. I’m here, in Europe, to do research for my book and I’m a rigorous schedule. The hardest part for me is unpacking and packing up every few days. I’m the kind of traveler who likes to hang my clothes, put my other clothes neatly folded in drawers, and hide my suitcase until I have to pack it back up. On this trip, I keep it packed and reach down and grab something clean to wear.
At my place in London, I had a washer/dryer in the kitchen, so I was able to wash my clothes. I only brought 4 pairs of pants for 16 days and a various, but small collection of shirts and sweaters. It seems like everyone smokes in Europe, so all my clothes stink. I have to wash them if I don’t want to smell like a bar (are a café, or restaurants, or any other public place!).
I’ll be taking Eurostar to Paris, it’s a 2 hour train ride. Tonight I’m meeting up with a Diva from Munich – oh you know her, she has contributed to Tango Diva. Her story is: Graz, Austria: I’ll Be Back.
This is what I want Tango Diva to truly be, a website where women can connect and meet up around the world. It’s always nice to have a local tour guide, who’s a woman and a member of Tango Diva. Meeting up with Tango Diva members around the world really makes travel so much nicer. Okay kids, I have a train to catch! See you in Paris.
bicycle helmet prices pirodr! 666
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