If you like sake or would like to learn more about Japan’s premium rice wines then join Nombe’s sake sommelier, Gil Payne, this Wednesday when he brings out the big guns. You’ll experience some exceptional sake from the Miyasaka Family of Suwa, Nagano, makers of the Miyasaka and Masumi Brand sakes. This 10th Generation sake clan has the distinction of having their own proprietary yeast declared a landmark classic yeast (Number 7) by the country’s national brewer’s association, and this yeast is widely used by sake makers throughout Japan.
*Check out the Masumi website for a helpful sake glossary cheat-sheet if you’re a sake newbie.
Chef Balla has carefully selected some special dishes to pair with Masumi’s Nanago, Yuedomo, Yamahai Ginjo, and Miyaska Yamahai 50 brand (plus one top-secret sake).
• Grilled Ribeye with Sake-Kasu
• Heirloom Tomato Salad with Shiso
• Dried Grilled Squid
• Marinated Hearts of Palm
The cost is $50 per person inclusive, and reservations can be made via OpenTable. Visit www.nombesf.com for further details
Last night I attended a pre-kick-off Spice Party for SF CHEFS 2010, held at the Westin St. Francis Hotel and it certainly was “everything nice”. A room full of celeb chefs presented us with some delectable spice-up-your-buds bites. A few of my fave’s were Mourad Lahlou’s (Aziza) egg, charmoula,potato foam and harissa, beautifully presented in the shell, as well as his corn dish topped with roe, tomato and vadouvan (an Indian spice mixture).
Gerald Hirigoyen’s (Piperade) family turned out to help him dish up a flavorful marinated sardine, as well as some other Basque tempters. Hoss Zare (Zare at Fly Trap) offered a spiced cold yogurt soup that dazzled my tastebuds.
If your mouth is watering, there are still a few tickets available for the Grand Tastings held under the big white tent in Union Square. You won’t want to miss this!
Over the last decade, Montreal has quietly reinvented itself into a hip and happenin’ city. Eclectic neighborhoods are everywhere, perfect for meandering, while the food scene has evolved light years from the tired old coq au vin days. The city is brimming with creative, artsy types and full of youthful optimism. It’s as if someone said “Hey, why not undo that top button?” and Montreal decided to take it down two.
And they have also come up with the most perfect P.C. way for you to explore it.
BIXI is the nifty public bike transit service that makes storing your wheels in overcrowded city apartments totally cave-man.
Mosey up to one of the many docking stations, whip out your credit card and voila, you’ve got thirty minutes to toodle around on a sturdy, stylish, well designed vehicle that requires zero maintenance, parking concerns or theft worries. Bixi is a concept that is so ingenious it belongs in every city that “talks” about reducing their carbon footprint.
Here’s my suggestions for some places to add to your Bixi route next time you’re in Montreal: Lodging:
The Marriott Chateau Champlain, a comfy, biz-type hotel, is conveniently located in the heart of downtown just a block from the train station. Our bright, cozy hotel room perched up on the 33rd floor offered a terrific city view. We were graciously granted entry rights to the Executive Lounge for a hearty breakfast along with complimentary snacks and soft drinks though out the day. Staff was snappy, courteous and helpful.
Le Petit Hôtel, a recent addition to the sleep scene, offers two dozen contemporary, loft-like rooms in historic Old Montreal. The extremely reasonable room rates include breakfast, internet and all the coffee you can drink!
Favorite Neighborhoods:
Rue St. Denis:
courtesy of tourisme-montreal
One afternoon, Bard, a good local bud, took us to his favorite hood, the previously gritty-turned-trendy, Rue St. Denis, in the Latin Quarter. A little of this and a bit of that, the street is home to over a hundred different boutique businesses. We only had time to peer through the windows but found the one-of-a- kind offerings most tempting.
Vieux Montreal:
The buildings in this venerable district are a hodgepodge of architectural styles exuding Old World charisma. Perfect for a walkabout, the area is a treasure trove of eateries, boutiques and galleries—many hidden in serene courtyards or on cobblestone side streets. Sometimes “elderly” port towns feel touristy or crumbling and fusty, not so for this old town which clearly knows how to show her best side to the camera.
Atwater Market:
From the Marriott we took the elevator down one flight, bought a metro ticket and in three short stops we had arrived. Open year round, this farmer’s market offers easy one-stop shopping for everything from farm fresh produce, fish, meats and baked goods to maple syrup. After ogling the incredible lettuce assortment at one stand Sis asked the lady merchant where we might go for lunch to get a delicious salad. With a wink and a cackle she proudly replied, “My house!”
Nice market but still second to The Marché Jean Talon .
Just for Laughs:
Festivals, jazz, comedy and outdoor shows are all a big part of Montreal life. The hotel concierge told us to “just walk down a few blocks until we hear the crowds cheering” and join the throngs for an evening of free, al fresco fun. We caught a terrific Cirque du Soleilesque trio nattily dressed in black tux pants, sneaks and Popsicle bright shirts. These adorable young guys were amazing, delighting the crowd with acrobatic high jinx on a balance beam along with an over-sized hoolahoop routine that had the audience clapping like crazy. You have to love that the Just for Laughs website is www.hahaha.com
Museum Quarter:
We totally lucked out since “We Want Miles” a fascinating Miles Davis retrospective was showing at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts. This vibrant downtown neighborhood is filled with numerous museums and galleries as well as many high-end department stores.
McGill University:
Montreal is home to several schools, but McGill is probably the best known to Americans. It’s comprised of more than 80 buildings on 80 acres. The attractive downtown campus brushes up to Mount Royal Park, one of Montreal’s largest green spaces.
Food:
A new breed of chefs are using locally grown produce, free-range meat, sustainable fish and their imaginations to produce some exciting cuisine, on par with top food-centric cities.
McKiernan luncheonette and wine bar:
McKiernan’s , the latest in the Joe Beef Notre-Dame chainlet is the only one open for lunch. Chef Fred Morin’s daily Blackboard specials represent whatever catches his eye at the neighboring Atwater Market. Soups, salads, and sandwiches are anything but traditional and it’s impossible to make a bad choice. The chicken tikka with chutney sandwich was a knock-out, the diverse wines by the glass are gently priced and the charcuterie is all house-made. Word is not to miss the johnnycakes (sausage, cheese, egg, and beans wrapped in pancakes) at Saturday’s brunch. Happy hour starts at noon at this 12-seat luncheonette.
Holder:
This trendy, high-energy brasserie in the old part of town is beautifully styled out with high tin ceilings, over-sized windows, lots of polished wood and copper. Can food be too good? My three-way duck salad was beyond delicious. After finishing the generous serving of foie gras, confit and gesiers on a bed of snappy greens I almost did a duck waddle myself. The lobster ravioli were light as an air kiss and the service was beyond reproach.
A hip winebar/hangout spot with food nibbles to go-with. The do-it-yourself menu is clever. You simply check off what you’d like to eat from categories covering Snacks, Classics, Seasonal and Sweets and hand it in. Ask the sommelier for pairing suggestions to go with the juicy bison burger. Clever architectural touches throughout, particularly the huge chandi made from wine glasses and chairs hanging from the ceiling.
For more ideas (check out the stylish Girlfriend Getaway package) or help in planning your trip visit Tourisme Montreal.
Eat, drink, and mingle with Bay Area’s leading chefs, winemakers, and mixologists at SF CHEFS 2010, THE food party to end all food parties. I don’t know about you but my plan is to get on the treadmill as soon as I finish typing and not get off until August 9th, which kicks off an amazing week jam- packed with EVERYTHING related to delicious food, wine and spirits.
A few highlights that caught my eye:
* Opening night’s Hog in the Fog, honoring everything piggy. Come see and taste what a cadre of talented chefs can create using a whole roasted Duroc pig as the temptress. I can personally testify as to what Ryan Farr( 4505 Meats) can do with pig and it’s simply magical. The evening will start with a sparkling toast provided by Domaine Chandon followed by pig-nibbles and wine tasting as you tap your trotters to the sounds of the Soul Peppers Band comprised of chefs Joey Altman, Gordon Drysdale, Marc Baum, David Margen, Tony Lufrano, and Jon Otis.
*Fork It Over Foodraiser at Union Square, where 25 star chefs will prepare a signature lamb dish for our tasting pleasure. Can’t wait to see what Mourad Lahlou (Aziza), Scott Howard (Brick + Bottle) and Craig Stoll (Delfina) do with Baa-Baa Black Sheep. Wine, cocktails, live music, and a food and wine lover’s silent auction all add to the fun.
For the more cerebral foodie there is a full roster of seminars where you can learn everything from “How to make the perfect Margarita” to discovering what celeb-chefs such as Michael Mina and Charles Phan really feel about the evolution of American Cuisine. Wine pairings, dessert tastings, sommelier luncheons, panel discussion, cooking demos, happy hours, pre and post parties round out the week.
Tip: In addition to all the big party hoop-lah, there will also be a special SFCHEFS 2010 RESTAURANT WEEK, August 9 to August 15, 2010. Over 60 local restaurants will feature signature three course prix-fixe dinners (a phenomenal deal at either $35 or $50) \ in honor of the big event. Pork will play a starring role although vegetarian options are also available.
Food Facts:
When: August 9-15, 2010
What: For a complete schedule of events see website.
Where: Various venues around town but main events are held at the Grand Tasting Tent in Union Square
Ticket info: To buy your tickets go to sfchefs2010.
Summer in San Francisco is so counter-intuitive. As an East-coast transplant, it still feels weird to spend most of the June and July bundled up in sweats, reduced to breaking out the self-tanner for a little fake glow. So naturally, I jumped at the chance to join a press trip hosted by the LVCVA and R&R Partners, to show off the luxurious side of Vegas.
Hard Rock Hotel Tower Suite
The new Hard Rock Hotel Tower was our home base. This sophisticated, stylish big-sister of Hard Rock Hotel features a private VIP entrance as well as direct access to a gorgeous swimming pool, the lux Reliquary Spa and Vanity nightclub. While there’s definitely a hip, rock and roll vibe going on at this all-suite property, comfort still rules. Frosting on the cake would be a stay at one of the lucky seven penthouse suites: Nirvana, Provocateur, Platinum, Infinity, Ultra Lounge, Stones or Sex & Pistols.
Standard suites offer two 40-inch flat screen TV’s, iPod hook-ups, Hard Rock’s fave playlists in digital touch-panel jukebox, a comfy, never-wanna-leave bed, a monstrous bathroom with over-sized shower and tub, and even free phone calls throughout most the country.
Be sure to check the website for some amazing specials.
The elegant, hat-box shaped dining room styled out with crystal chandeliers, blown glass dew-drops and vanilla ice-creamy leather banquettes, looks like a movie set for Sex and the City (actually, the four gal-pals were obsessed with Payard’s desserts on the show). Surprisingly, a lux-lunch at this Parisian inspired bistro happens to offer one of the best Prix-fix menus in town—three courses, including your choice of any of the delectable desserts, for only $21.
Winning brekkie picks include the world’s best choco-croissant, sweet & savory crepes, and steaming-hot beignets. To banish a lingering hangover, try the brioche pain perdu French toast with fresh berries and whipped cream.
Tip: For instant oral gratification pop next door to the retail shop for the Oreo or S’more flavored macrarons.
For an unforgettable evening dining on classical Japanese cuisine cleverly re-interpreted by Chef Akira Back’s, (formerly the Executive Chef at Nobu Matsuhisa’s in Aspen) simply follow these three steps:
1. Call waaaay ahead to reserve a table on the private balcony for a birds-eye view of Bellagio’s iconic sight and sound fountain show. There is a new show every 15 minutes.
2. Sip a delicious, refreshing Essence cocktail (cucumber, white cranberry and citrus) while perusing the menu. Later, change it up with a sake-tasting from their extensive collection.
3. Order a variety of hot and cold small plates to share. The fresh, glistening sushi/sashimi was brilliant, with one exception—the Poppin’ Spicy Crab roll. The secret ingredient is a layer of watermelon crackling ‘pop-rocks” candy, which just didn’t rock my world.
Highly Recommend: the Big Eyed Tuna Pizza- tuna on a crunchy tortilla topped with truffle oil and micro-greens, Maine Lobster Carpaccio- with sweet onion and cilantro, Tataki salad-a trio of raw tuna, salmon and yellowtail dressed perfectly, and the achingly tender Kobe beef short ribs.
Wazuzu is where celeb-chef, Jet Tila’s inspired Pan-Asian cuisine meets the best of the west. You’ll dine in a sea of crimson under the watchful eye of a gigundous 27-foot dragon made from 90,000 Swarovski crystals and 2,400 flickering lights. Other artistic creations include the Panang Curry, a soupy Thai coconut- curry with veggies and your choice of protein, a silken Miso Marinated Black Cod, Drunken Noodles- tender beef and flat rice noodles napped with a sweet soy, basil and chili sauce (a little oily for my tastes but the rest of the gang slurped them down in seconds) a kick-butt spicy version of Mongolian beef and a full range of designer sushi. If you won big at the tables consider splurging on Jet’s High “Roll”er, made up of Toro, Maine lobster and caviar for a mere $100. A fun drink that paired well with the spiciness was the unique Momokawa Coconut-Lemongrass Nigori Sake.
Nove (Nine in Italian…maybe because the two owners met when they were 9 years old?) serves up a great view which is particularly dramatic at night when the window’s flickering flames emerge. The restaurant boasts great décor and over-the-top glam with Led Swarovski crystal chandeliers hanging from the cathedral ceilings, crocodile leather banquettes, oversized walnut tables and whimsical, 12 foot tall topiaries of Sophia Loren-ish type women lining the wall. And don’t forget the great food. Chef Geno Bernardo adds his personal pizzazz to classic Italian fare. Everything from bread to pasta is made in-house. They even cure their own meats and sausages. A proponent of farm-to-table cuisine, Bernardo has joined forces with a local organic farm to ensure that only the freshest seasonal fruits and veggies grace his menu.
Openers and closers provided the highlights. A trio of tasty starters sure got our attention: Crudo (Italy’s version of sashimi) with fresh chopped salmon, tuna and yellowtail with a drizzle of lemon and olive oil, an earthy salumi platter with cured meats, walnut pesto, parmigiano and toasted ciabatta and a well- blistered pizza with a tomato, basil and mozzarella di bufala (a purist’s delight).
We ended with the most fun dessert, “make-your-own” mini cannoli, guaranteed to bring out your inner child. Our waiter (thanks for the superb service, by the way) brought us a plate of empty shells, a tube of sweetened cream for filling and a dipping tray with a selection of toppings that included baby white and dark chocolate chips, raspberry sauce, coconut flakes, crushed candy bars, etc.
We zipped upstairs for an after-dinner drink at the renowned Playboy Club, a combo upscale lounge and gaming venue. We absolutely loved playing “Guess-who” as the 60 plasma screens flashed celebrity pics acquired from the Playboy archives. Since there were more bunnies than customers that night we jumped towers to hang at Ghostbar’s lively outdoor lounge, sipping a signature “Ghostini” (blend of Absolute and Midori) while taking in the unparallel views from the 55th floor patio.
“Would you mind taking my picture?” was all the pickup line one lucky lover needed here.
Strip House
For an all-American upscale meat and potatoes dinner, carnivores will be in cow-heaven at Planet Hollywood’s indulging in prime cuts of steak, blissfully unadulterated and charred to perfection. The stunning décor (opulent red-flocked walls covered with sexy vintage pin-up photos, seductive red leather booths and soft lighting) and the exceedingly hospitable service make this a perfect date-night spot.
“It sounds so romantic, but I don’t eat meat,” you wail. No problem. Strip House offers organic chicken, fresh seafood and a long list of decadent sides. A vegetarian could easily make a tasty meal out of the Creamed Spinach gussied up with Black Truffles, Crisp Goose Fat potatoes, a tangle of sautéed wild mushrooms and green beans with garlic. The table next to us was in seventh heaven over the Warm Garlic bread Gorgonzola Fondue (definitely ordering that next time as well as a repeat of the addictive, sweet & salty teriyaki beef jerky and the Rockerfeller-rich creamed corn with smoky pancetta, and the…)
If you want to continue the good-ol’-days strip theme, stroll next door to Peep Show, starring Holly Madison (from Hefner’s Girl Next Door fame) as Little Bo Peep. This topless revue (with the obvious exception of Holly, the rest of the “tops” were refreshingly un-touched) is rather tame by Vegas standards but a heck of a lot fun, with a couple of great singers that carried the show. Holly fans can pay for the added thrill of a post-show meet and greet which includes champagne and the opportunity to take your picture with Holly.
Courtesy of Cirque du Soleil
For a different thrill-set, go see Cirque du Soleil’s KÀ. I have to admit that after seeing half a dozen of Cirque’s shows, I was so “been there, done that” but KÀ totally blew my mind. I couldn’t begin to follow the story line about some Imperial Twins separated by war after embarking on an epic journey but it didn’t matter. The multimillion dollar set is an amazing backdrop for showcasing the talents of the gravity-defying artists. (I don’t want to give anything away but I’ve never seen anything like the 60-foot free fall during a fight scene.) The human-size animal puppetry combined with cutting edge multimedia was incredible, as was the beautifully simplistic Shadow Play scene, which pays tribute to the earliest form of story telling.
Daytime Diversions
Other than pool-hopping and hanging in the air-con malls, there wasn’t a lot I wanted to do in 110 degree heat, EXCEPT test my mad flying skills at Vegas Indoor Skydiving. For an exhilarating experience, “flying” scores right up there. Their indoor vertical wind tunnel allows you to experience all the fun of skydiving without the “OMG, I’m going to die” part. The instructors were exceedingly patient, hysterically funny and very safety-conscious. First you’re weighed in (after all the fine dining I really appreciated that they wrote down my poundage without comment) and sent to the classroom for a brief lesson on proper body positioning (good thing I’m taking Pilates-I aced this one), special hand signals to use while in flight, followed by a short video reiterating the do’s and don’ts. After putting on the special flight suit and head gear our intrepid trio of journalists entered the padded womb-like tunnel. We each took three turns flying. The instructor kept giving me the signal “to relax” but with all the adrenaline, it’s harder than it looks. My last time, he twirled me high in air like pizza dough, and I finally loosened up. One more lesson and I’ll be ready to try out for KÀ.
When you’re ready to make plans, be sure and check out VisitLasVegas for great ideas and special deals on where to eat, play and stay.
HOW TO GET THERE
By Air: Glacier Park International Airport (FCA) is just 19 miles from Whitefish Mountain Resort and is served by three major airlines: Delta, Northwest and United.
By Train:
This historic railroad-turned-ski town is still a major stop for Amtrak. Trains from the West Coast arrive at Whitefish at 7:30 a.m., leaving time for you to hop on the S*N*O*W* Bus—the complimentary Shuttle Network of Whitefish that runs a circuit around the town and the mountain resorts—and arrive at the slopes in plenty of time to rent equipment, have a hot breakfast at the main lodge and still make the first chair.
WHERE TO STAY
Lodge at Whitefish Lake
Equipped with elegant suites featuring mucho space, crackling fireplaces, wonderful bathroom amenities, gourmet restaurants, and a world class spa, the Lodge at Whitefish Lake is a first-class choice, and perfect for a stellar Girlfriend Getaway.
The lodge is as superb as the view that surrounds it. Located a mile from town and just minutes from the slopes, you can ski all day and then either choose to explore the vibrant nightlife in Whitefish, or just laze around this warm, full-service resort. Get toasty in front of the fireplace, soothe those pleasantly aching thigh muscles in their outdoor hot tub, or recount your day’s adventures over a gourmet dinner at The Boat Club lounge and restaurant.
Arrange a getaway with your girlfriends, but be advised: you must (and I mean must) plan to spend some serious time chilling at the spa. You might even consider splurging for one of their blissful half-day ritual treatments. It’s worth it. MY masseuse, Zionah, was incredible. I think her name must mean “hands of magic.”
I created my own afternoon delight package which I call “A Huck of a Good Time.” It starts with a little sustenance from the Coffee Shop—a cup of huckleberry tea and a steaming hot huckleberry muffin. Off to the spa for a life-altering Deep Tissue Bodywork massage followed by their fragrant Huckleberry Body Scrub. You’ll finish in time to grab a seat at the bar, camera poised to capture an extraordinary sunset shot over Glacier National Park, while sipping a signature Huckleberry Martini. Highly advised is that you pair the martini with the fantastically fattening Boat Club Chips—homemade sweet potato chips that you dip in a sauce of melted blue cheese/ranch dressing. Divine!
GRAB SOME GRUB:
Tupelo Grill: The hunky owner Pat, a Louisiana transplant (ergo the wide selection of home-style Southern dishes on the eclectic menu) runs a jumping Whitefish restaurant that combines a good ol’ time with some seriously good food. A girlfriend and I shared almost every Cajun/Creole dish on the menu and found each to be better than the last—manageable if you order “tapas style” and stick with the starters and second plate offerings.
Can’t miss selections: Grilled crawfish cakes, the hot and sassy Looziana gumbo, signature shrimp and grits, herbed chicken and dumplings. All of these paired beautifully with my Elk Cove Riesling—highly recommended.
Tip: After a day of skiing, calories be damned. Don’t even think of leaving without trying their rich, rummy, decadent bread pudding.
Café Kandahar: Sadly, I was not able to personally experience this restaurant, especially because Chef/Owner Andy Blanton (another Southern boy) was just nominated for the “Best Chef” category of the 2010 James Beard Awards. Also, a fellow foodie on our trip had waxed euphoric about the dinner he had experienced there on his last visit: an eight course extravaganza showcasing locally-cultivated products and wild game, masterfully paired with some exceptional wine.
WHAT TO DO
Whitefish Mountain Resort:
Read this and weep and then call for reservations: “A typical day of skiing at Whitefish” : Each skier gets more than a whole acre all to themselves—that’s from the 3,000 acres of skiable terrain, which range from the so-called “bunny slopes” to “yikes!” Covering the hill are 300 inches of pure powder, and to boot (no pun intended), your choice of ski-in, ski-out lodging ranging from budget to luxe. When you get to the top of the peak you can see all the way to Canada, and it is breathtaking. It’s possible to ski all four sides of the mountain, so that you almost never get swarms of people clogging up the hillside. During my afternoon, a “long” wait for the lift meant that there were about six people in line ahead of me, and one time, my instructor and I had the run all to ourselves, all the way to the bottom.
Speaking of instructors, they were fan-TAS-tic. Even though I hadn’t put on a pair of skis in far too many years—so many, in fact, that I was startled to see that skis are now about half the length that they were when I was last on the slopes—my awesome coach, Lori, had me at level 5 by the end of the day—and that was 5 out of 9, not 100! She used all sorts of helpful visuals to get me up to speed and could not have been more patient. With her help, I went from bumbling klutz to slick ski-bunny in just a few hours.
Fun Fact: The Mountain is decorated with these unique snow-ghosts—exotic snow-covered, Edward-Scissorhands-looking trees that look eerily lifelike.
Great deals galore:
Two-day Learn-to-Ski packages start at only $69! Ski and sleep for a song: Take advantage of their value-packed package deals, starting at an amazing $70/ night for lodging and lift tickets! I mean, really, my girlfriends and I often spend that much just on dinner. What a steal!
Nice touch: Love that free S*N*O*W bus that shuttles you from your lodge to either the slopes or downtown, so no need to rent a car.
A few weeks ago I received the following invitation from a friend of mine, Tony Giovanzana (the Director of Retail Operations at Dry Creek’s Lambert Bridge Winery):
I would like you to be our guest at a very special, once-in-a-lifetime dinner that we are hosting here at the winery. We have partnered with Paula Le Duc for this amazing dinner, six courses of exquisitely prepared cuisine paired with 14 vintages of Crane Creek Cuvee one of our flagship wines. We will be reaching into our library and presenting our 1994 through 2006 vintages. Jill Davis our winemaker and I will guide this intimate group through each flight of this Merlot based Bordeaux blend, hosted in our vaulted ceiling candle lit barrel room. The event date is February 13th with dinner beginning at 6:30pm. I have attached a copy of the menu for your convenient review:
PASSED HORS D’OEURVES
Wine Barrel Smoked Duck
Curried Pumpkin on Walnut Cranberry Crostini
Grilled Black Mission Fig
Wrapped in Boccalone Lardo
Mt. Tam
Offered “Soft Serve” with Dried Apricot in a savory Cone
Lemongrass Marinated Flank Steak
Coconut, Peanut & Mint
FIRST COURSE
1994, 1995 & 1996 Crane Creek Cuvée
paired with
Crisp Pork Belly
Chanterelles, Brabant Potatoes & Lemon-Thyme
SECOND COURSE
1997, 1998 & 1999 Crane Creek Cuvée
paired with
Bacon Wrapped Supreme of Poussin
Roasted in a Wood Oven served over a bed of Cannelini Beans with Braised Leeks
THIRD COURSE
2000, 2001 & 2002 Crane Creek Cuvée
paired with
Oxtail Ragout
Grains of Paradise Pappardelle & Mascarpone
FOURTH COURSE
Would love to have you at the event!
Give it some thought,
Tony
I really cracked up when I reached the “Give it some thought” line. As if!
Exactly, two seconds later I called Tony and said, “I would be thrilled to attend. Where should I spend the night? ”
Without missing a beat he replied, “You must stay at Les Mars in Healdsburg. It’s totally unbelievable.”
Which is how I came to spend Valentine’s Day in Healdsburg, all on my own and blissfully happy.
Les Mars Hotel
I entered Les Mars, just steps away from the main square, with sky-high expectations after reading copious rave reviews on this Relais & Chateaux property. Although I’m a tough critic, the next day as I sadly packed my bag singing my version of Michael Buble’s song, “I ( so don’t) wanna go home”, I realized the only thing that hadn’t been 100% perfect was that the bathroom make-up mirror didn’t light up. (When I mentioned this to Katy Ciocca, the hotel’s extraordinarily lovely, gracious G.M., she told me that they had just been ordered.)
The well-traveled Mars family (no relation to the candy bar) set out to create an elegant, sophisticated, European style hotel that offered exceptional Old World style hospitality.
To help realize their vision, the Mars hired Bay Area designer, Helga Horner, who began the project by asking, “How does one live beautiful?”
The answer is self evident in Les Mars’ antique Flemish tapestries, authentic Louis XV furniture, the leather-bound books found in the library’s carved walnut bookcases, the fresh flowers beautifully arranged throughout the 16 room hotel, and the petit private pool perfect for sunning and appreciating a nice glass of wine.
As I entered my glam suite, the Mansion Queen Room, featuring a cathedral high ceiling, flickering gas fireplace, a chilled bottle of wine at the ready, soft music playing, white orchids throughout and two insanely comfortable white, down-covered beds, I knew it was going to be tough to leave the nest. Except if I was heading over to the oversized marble bathroom, complete with Waterworks pewter fixtures, large bottles of Voss water, a deep Jacuzzi tub with accompanying lavender bath salts and scrubs, and assorted Bulgari toiletries—they even lined the drawers with hand-pressed linens. And kudos for supplying easy-to-follow written instructions, even with pictures, for the Jacuzzi, cd/dvd player, and the tv remote.
But stir I must since it was time to head over to Lambert Bridge for the tasting dinner, but not before I stopped downstairs for the complimentary wine (boutique) and cheese (artisan) tasting held in the library. The selection changes nightly and is conducted by the hotel’s consulting sommelier, Ron Washam. Ron is a wealth of wine info and is delighted to arrange special wine tours and tastings for the guests, including some secret off-the beaten wine-road suggestions.
After a glorious night’s sleep I was awakened by a soft tapping on the door, which was my breakfast-in-bed delivery, which consisting of a mélange of fresh berries, thick yogurt, homemade granola and a generous pot of dark coffee (thank God, after all the wine I had the night before) delivered bedside on a solid silver tray with starched linens, fine china, and a mini-bouquet of white roses. What a civilized way to start the day. Wait, a Mimosa would really hit the spot. “Hello… room service?”
Les Mars is not only a top choice for your next romantic getaway but it’s also perfect for a luxe girlfriend getaway. The staff would be happy to arrange spa treatments, bike rentals, gourmet picnics, limo-wine tours, or reserve dinner at Cyrus, the Michelin two-starred restaurant next door.
Lambert Bridge
That evening, as I drove cross the old trestle bridge and caught my first glimpse of the winery nestled into the hillside, it’s stone and rough wood lodge-like tasting room surrounded by an old-fashioned wrap-around porch (a perfect spot for sipping the afternoon away) it brought to mind a Rockefeller Great House.
Two gigantic wooden doors opened to the vaulted redwood tasting room, where about 50 guests were doing a little pre-dinner mingling, enjoying Hors D’Oeuvres and a glass of white wine in front of the welcoming stone fireplace before heading into the elegant candlelit Barrel Room.
I was introduced to Lambert Bridge’s gregarious winemaker, Jill Davis, who’s been producing some pretty spectacular artisanal Bordeaux-styled wines since her first vintage with Lambert Bridge in 2006. Previously, Davis made a name for herself at Beringer Vineyards, Buena Vista Winery and William Hill Winery. She’s passionate about creating classic wines in the old world style: rich, elegant and polished.
During dinner, Jill stood up and proudly introduced us to her brand new associate winemaker and longtime friend, Jennifer Higgins, who also has a stellar background in producing boutique Bordeaux varietals. It was exciting to be at the threshold of what I’m sure will be a revolutionary “Women in Winemaking” dream-team.
The Crane Creek Cuvee were all incredible with a cornucopia of flavor profiles, allowing for some spirited discussions at our table, as to which year paired better with each dish. I could definitely ascertain the different jammy red fruits, tobacco and leather notes, but shhhhh…they lost me at the pencil shavings.
Paula Le Duc’s food was not only delicious but beautifully presented. My favorite combos were the 1994 Crane Creek Cuvee with the Crisp Pork Belly and the 2002 vintage with the peppery, coriander flavored Grains of Paradise Pappardelle topped with Oxtail Ragout.
Although the 1997, 1998, and 1999 vintages are sold out, there are still many excellent years available. Jill vouched for the 2007 as a youngster with a lot of promise in the future. So, if you haven’t been before, I suggest the next nice weekend you plan a tasting (and a picnic) at the winery. The wines aren’t cheap but are well worth twice the price.
They also have a full calendar of special events that you can peruse on their website as well as information on joining their Liquid Assets wine club. One particularly fun sounding event is April’s Sausage Making class led by the master himself, Bruce Aidell.
Lambert Bridge Winery
4085 W. Dry Creek Road
Healdsburg, CA. 95448
Phone: 707-431-9600
FYI: Snowmobiling is, during the day, a safe and sane way to get from point A to B while taking in some incredible views. At night, however—night in Montana, nonetheless, with its big sky gone dark and not even a scrap of moon to illuminate the snow-covered trails—snowmobiling seemed like pure insanity. For me, it was beyond “extreme,” which was the only paragraph on www.eHow.com snowmobiling ,that I had neglected to read, before leaving on my five-day Glacier Country snowmobiling press trip. I had joined this cadre of journalists (two outdoorsy male writers and a woman from Connecticut who wore full-dress make-up at all times) two days into the trip, because I had been enjoying some special Girlfriend Getaway add-ons, so this was only my second time snowmobiling, and never at night.
A voice came from across the room as we chattered about our afternoon ride up to Trixie’s Antler Saloon in Ovando, Montana. “You all had better wait for me this time,” the East Coast travel writer complained. (Amongst ourselves we referred to her as “Miss Priss,” thanks to her general disinclination towards adventure. And this was Montana! That’s “adventure” with a capital-A.) Ironically, it was “Miss Troop Beverly Hills” that got to spend the night in a yurt (complete with breathtaking views) sleeping in spartan bunk beds alongside a dozen Mountain Men, grown Montana-tough, who she claimed “did nothing but burp, snore and let loose other unpleasant bodily noises all night long.”
After hearing all her grievances, I thought it best not to divulge the fact while she was queuing up for the outhouse in the snow (yurts don’t have indoor plumbing), I was luxuriating in my back2back spa treatments, after my peaceful night sleep in my feathery bed at the luxe Lodge at Whitefish Lake, thankyouverymuch…
We were just finishing up our 32. oz. T-bone steak dinners at Trixi’s, which overlooks the breathtaking rugged peaks and towering forests of the Bob Marshall and Scapegoat Wildernesses. Trixi, the bar’s namesake, had been one tough little cookie – a former trick rider, roper and showgirl who bought the bar in the 1950′s (the jury is still out as to whether she was also a Madam or just really, really popular with men.) The place oozed Wild West atmosphere, down to the locals shooting pool while deep in discussion about the best way to smoke jerky—I overheard an interesting new recipe from one of the manly-men which consisted of soaking the venison in rhubarb wine and Cajun spices before smoking it. Tempted by the description, I went over and struck up a conversation and next thing I knew the man had offered to head back home and bring me back a sample. (Needless to say, Montanans are really nice.) Sure, I thought, anything to delay the moonlight return trip (wait, what moonlight? It was blacker than a biker’s jacket out there!) Five minutes later, gnawing on that tasty jerky, I took a last gulp of wine and attempted to man-up for the ride back.
I asked Curtis, our snowmobiling guide, owner of Kurt’s Polaris , where we had rented our snowmobiles earlier that day, how long the ride back would take. He told me that it was only about 35 miles and that it “shouldn’t take long unless we have to keep stopping for what’s-her-name…” glancing over at Miss P.
Since the temperature had been rapidly dropping I knew it would be nothing like earlier that day, when we were riding in broad daylight on nicely groomed paths covered by fresh, powdery snow. In the morning we had taken a couple of detours into a few pristine, snow-covered pastures where some of us practiced our loop-de-loops, but we might as well have been oldsters taking a Sunday afternoon drive through the park compared to tonight. I shivered, and started to re-layer myself for the trip back. As we were leaving the restaurant, Curtis’ sister piped up, that we couldn’t be in better hands since Curtis ( although too shy to mention it) had won “King of the Hill” in the World Championship Hill Climb Competition in Jackson Hole, Wyoming.( Picture of Curtis warming up is courtesy of Glacier Country Tourism) Phew. That’s comforting. Now, if I could only stop thinking of the little white crosses that peppered the hillside on our way up here…
We fastened our helmets and goggles and took off. For the next twenty minutes, we crept along the main road at about 10 mph before coming to the mountain path. I knew if we continued at this snail’s pace, I was going to freeze to death, plus it was boring. We decided to split into two groups, with Miss Priss-the-tortoise (now with her own private slow-poke guide) in one and the thrill-seeking-hares in another, saying we’d meet up again in about 10 miles.
What transpired next was one of the most hands-down exhilarating nights of my life: Curtis started racing over the hills going about a million miles an hour (granted, it was probably only about 45 mph, but on the dark winding roads, with the wind whipping through, and the slip-sliding crunch of the ice, it felt “yee-haw” lightning fast.) It was like a big snowball combination of flying, skiing, zip lining and driving a formula car. I could barely see thru my fogged mask, but I knew I had to stick with Curtis, “my higher power”, like the glue that holds on the Kardashians’ false eyelashes. So I slammed on the gas and went for it. The speed was intoxicating, until Curtis felt guilt pangs and decided to stop and wait for the tortoises, who were miles behind us.
I took off with fellow daredevil, Larry Turner, an amazing photographer from Oregon, and we raced down the mountainside like Batman and Robin, at an even faster clip, flying over the gnarly trails, singing Paul Simon’s “Slip Sliding Away” at the top of our lungs. Once when we stopped to catch our breath, we turned off our engines to see if we could even hear the others—nothing answered but a muted deep silence and then some low pitched hoots, which my outdoorsy companion informed me were probably some great horned owls… waaay cool serenade.
About two hours later we arrived safely at the rental shop without a scratch on us. We were all jubilant with excitement, gleefully hugging and high-fiving, feeling so alive. Yeah, it was a little scary (o.k. maybe a lot scary) but isn’t pushing the envelope, doing something risky and exciting, one of the main reasons to travel? Not for Miss P., though. She crept in much later, fighting mad at “how selfish we were not to have waited for her, blah blah blah.” But even her whining couldn’t put a damper on my unforgettable ride through the beautiful, wonderful, thrill-filled wilds of Montana.
dramatic at night when the window’s flickering flames emerge. The restaurant boasts great décor and over-the-top glam with Led Swarovski crystal chandeliers hanging from the cathedral ceilings, crocodile leather banquettes, oversized walnut tables and whimsical, 12 foot tall topiaries of Sophia Loren-ish type women lining the wall. And don’t forget the great food. Chef Geno Bernardo adds his personal pizzazz to classic Italian fare. Everything from bread to pasta is made in-house. They even cure their own meats and sausages. A proponent of farm-to-table cuisine, Bernardo has joined forces with a local organic farm to ensure that only the freshest seasonal fruits and veggies grace his menu.
